Among small independent grocery stores holding their own and still in business, Goglia's Market on Wood Street remains a long time favorite with many local regulars.

For owner Victor P. Goglia, 63, it hasn't come easy. "It's not like it used to be years ago," Goglia said as he worked the deli counter, piling up his signature Italian grinder with all the extras.

"Today you have to watch closely, control your prices and pay for permits, you don't even know what they're for."

Opened by his grandfather Peter in 1918, Goglia's Market has survived the coming and going of the former Almac's Supermarket (now Seabra) on Gooding Avenue and the advent of Stop and Shop on Metacom. Still serving the same neighborhood is the Azorean Butcher Shop, two blocks to the north. A similar neighborhood market, Model Grocery, closed its doors on High Street about 20 years ago.  

One of six children, Mr. Goglia started working with his grandma, Concetta, at the age of 10 and remembers when his father, Gabriel, opened the deli to make grinders. "I was brought up to work," he said. "You shut your mouth and worked until you got a break Sunday afternoon to watch a ball game on Channel 6." He said he enjoyed those days. He was young and eager.

While the challenges of the recent economy led Goglia's to close from Saturday through Monday, he still maintains the same work ethic. "Lotta people are upset and say I'm retired, but I still put in 50 hours a week," he said. He works another 10 hours preparing stew meat, blade meat and ground beef to supply several local restaurants and bakes during the summer.

During the time he answered questions, five people ordered at his deli, four buying his foot-long-plus Italian grinder. "Best grinders around, ask anybody," said Linda Franco of Metacom Avenue, who added she has been coming in since she was a kid. "Gotta have a Goglia's grinder, good for two meals." A quick look at Goglia's reviews online shows the Italian grinder to be a favorite, and for less than $10. 

Goglia said he raised prices on his grinders in recent years from $6.00 each, largely because of his increased costs, including health insurance for he and his wife, Ann Marie, which not long ago went up $250 a month. At the same time he said he goes the extra mile to supply a superior product.

He buys only quality meats, another practice he picked up from his dad, and another reason he thinks people keep returning. "You get what you pay for," he said. He prefers the torpedo rolls from Batista Bakery, also just blocks away. "People like that bread," he said. 

Mr. Goglia also stocks his freezers with quality products, including two sizes of meatballs, a preferred brand ravioli and prime veal cutlets from well-known vendors on Federal Hill in Providence.

Sports and food go together

He also learned to be an independent sports buff from his father, a die-hard New York Yankees fan in a Red Sox town. Asked if that was difficult, he replied, "Piece of cake! I saw the Yankees win seven pennants and three World Series in a row. Nobody said 'boo' for 20 years, until the Sox got out of the cellar and won in 2004." His favorite players remain former catcher Thurman Munson and closer Mariano Rivera, both known for consistent hard work more than flashy plays and celebrity.

The unique collection of Yankee photos and memorabilia that runs along the upper wall at Goglia's Market is clear proof of Victor's team allegiance. A graduate of Bristol High School, he said his work schedule never allowed him time for athletics (he preferred ice hockey), nor time for more than a few accounting courses at Johnson and Wales to help him manage the business.

Goglia's has over the years been a gathering spot for casual fellowship and local gossip. Always busy with the next customer, Victor does little of the talking. Photos on the wall include the late Town Council Chairman Kenny Marshall and bike-rider friend Eric Bense. Mr. Goglia recalls many good card games after hours.

As for the future of Goglia's Market after he retires, Victor is not optimistic. "Who wants to do seven days a week?" he asked. "Kids out of college want to get paid $100,000 a year." He said he has no present retirement plans. "Be honest? I've loved this for years ... but it's starting to fade."

What is not fading, however, is the East Bay hunger for his trademark Italian grinder.