For a business that has built its reputation — and a solid base of regulars — on serving dependably great Northern Italian fare, 2020 was not exactly how owner Bob Vanderhoof anticipated spending his 20th year in business. In fact, this very week last year, Mr. Vanderhoof was forced to lay off his entire staff, retaining only his chef and himself, as the business was forced to switch to an all-takeout model.

Thankfully, when we sat down with him on Tuesday, March 16, the 20th anniversary of Roberto’s 2001 founding, things were looking much better, and Mr. Vanderhoof was looking forward to marking the occasion of his long-term survival with a small group of friends and clients, and a champagne toast.

“We decided not to do any big thing — COVID is still out there,” he said. “We expect a bigger than normal crowd for a Tuesday in March, but no fanfare.”

In March of 2001, as many will recall, Roberto’s was a block south on Hope Street, where Angelina’s is now. “Back then, we had six tables, which seated 22 people (if the 4-tops were filled), and no bar,” said Mr. Vanderhoof. “I’m not sure how we did it.”

The “we” was Mr. Vanderhoof and Bob Myers, Roberto’s original chef and co-owner at the time. Mr. Vanderhoof bought out Mr Myers about 12 years ago and is now the sole owner.

“It’s been an interesting year,” admits Mr. Vanderhoof. “A lot of my older customers have stayed away, and they are just starting to come back these past couple of weeks. Younger people aren’t afraid, but my business isn’t a college crowd, it’s adults who are mostly very concerned about COVID.”

“One couple, who were regulars one night a week religiously, always sat in the same place at the bar, now get takeout religiously. I’m looking forward to seeing them in the dining room again.”

As bad as this year was, Mr. Vanderhoof is very grateful for the various efforts by governments, from the local to the federal level, for everything that was done to keep him and other restauranteurs in business.

“Between the town giving us heaters, the state giving grant money, and the federal government’s PPP loans …Without those it would have been very difficult to stay open. I’m sure I echo every other restaurant owner, when your income drops 60 percent but overhead doesn’t change, it’s tough … The current relief bill contains money earmarked for restaurants. That should be coming soon. It will help us get through the spring until we are at full capacity,” he said.

With recovery, new bookings, and more outdoor dining in better weather, he expects things will soon even out, industry-wide.

Mr. Vanderhoof admits Roberto’s is fortunate, with ample space both indoors and out. They’ve expanded twice since they moved to their current location in 2012, in the Hope street block between Court and State streets.

“We’re taking up a lot of space; even before COVID our dining room was laid out to give people their privacy.”

The Roberto’s function room has the capacity to hold 75 guests, once regulations are lifted. “Not everyone has this kind of space,” he said, of other downtown restaurants. “But I am glad we’ve all survived. They are all nice people who deserve whatever they can get to stay open.

“I think I’m finished with expanding, though — enough is enough. Now we are in good spot.”

Roberto’s menu has changed over the years, but it has never strayed far from its Northern Italian roots; many of the most popular menu items date to Mr. Myers’ experiences working in an Italian restaurant in Florida and then Puerini’s in Newport. Their honey mustard Caesar salad is actually adapted from one created by Mr. Myers’ wife, who was a chef on a cruise ship.

Mr. Vanderhoff’s favorite meal from his kitchen? Piccata. “I love lemon and capers,” he said. “Anything piccata.”

Mr. Vanderhoof gives much of the credit for his long-term success to his staff. In addition to head chef Peter DePasquale, who was his sous chef for many years, he has several longstanding employees, like his manager, Ali Lizotte, who began working at Roberto’s as a busser 20 years ago. “Ali’s mother, Paula, was our first manager, and Ali’s been a busser, waiter, bar manager, and now manager,” said Mr. Vanderhoof. “I have so many memories of her working here as a kid, and now she’s giving the orders — especially to me.”

“There’s also Jenny Luther, she’s a bartender, waiter and host who has been with us 20 years, a wonderful person, and Kelly Furtado, who was here 17 years.

“We’ve been fortunate to have such continuity of wonderful staff, for both the restaurant and the customers who like to come to a place where the people know you, and they know what you like.”